Diary of a Safari in Tanzania
Day One
We walked into a wall of dark heat as we made our way outside the terminal building and followed our guide to our vans. On our way to our overnight stop near Arusha we sped through small settlements where dark faces shone in the pale light of single electric light bulbs. At our lodge we were greeted with a welcome cold towel to refresh hands and faces and a cooling fruit juice before being escorted to dinner in the spacious first floor dining room. After a very good buffet we were taken to our rooms and it was not long before we were all wallowing amongst the pillows of our large comfortable beds behind the protective mosquito net.
Day Two
Briefing outside on the lawn after breakfast then set off for Tarangire in our safari vehicles, with roofs that could be pushed up for game viewing. Stopped on the way at a souvenir shop crammed with a bewildering variety of wood carvings, paintings, soapstone and other souvenirs plus an assurance we could call in again at the end of our safari. After signing in at the park entrance the roofs went up and we had a game drive on the way to the lodge. Quite a lot of activity despite the hour, midday. After lunch by the pool and a siesta we set off for our first game drive. Giraffes munched the acacia trees, dik diks nibbled at the long grass at the side of the track and large herds of elephants grazed in a protective circle around their young. Colourful birds perched in the trees and hovered above us. We stopped on the way back to watch the sun go down behind the hugebaobob trees for which this park was famous. Pre-dinner drinks were followed by dinner during which we were entertained by the antics of a genet cat in the rafters trying to catch moths.
Day Three
Our early start was rewarded by some good sightings on our way to the park entrance where the roofs went down and we headed for Lake Manyara. Two stops on the way. A Masai school where the teachers were battling against years of tribal traditions and the cultural village of Mto Wa Mbu. Our village visit started at their wood carving workshop and then we walked through the banana plantation, visited the school and finally tried the local brew, red banana beer. Continuing on our way we arrived at our lodge by Lake Manyara in time for lunch. On our game drive aftr lunch the theme was elephants again, but the real treat was seeing a lion stretched out asleep on the branch of a tree. At the end of our game drive we parked by the lake and spent some time trying to digitally record one of the many hippopotamuses yawning.
Day Four
Lake Manyara to the Serengeti with a visit to the Olduvai Gorge on the way. At the Gorge we were told about the ‘footprints of man’ that were found there. Our route took us round the Ngorongoro Crater and a chance to take photographs from a viewpoint above the crater. As we left the Ngorongoro conservation area and entered the Serengeti the landscape changed dramatically and we drove through the never ending flat plain. Here we saw herds of zebra and wildebeeste in their hundreds and gazelle nibbling the grass lined our route nearly all the way to our lodge. There was excitement when a lion was spotted and we made a detour to see him stretched out in the sun on one of the few rocky promonotories in the area.
Day Five
Up at 04:15, tea and biscuits in reception and checked that everyone doing the hot air balloon flight was up and ready to go. We set off in two vehicles driving through the pre-dawn blackness. As I was in the first vheicle watching the headlights behind us, until they disappeared. I alerted our driver and we stopped and waited. And waited. Finally we drove back and discovered them grounded in some deep tracks. Somehow accommodated 15 people in an eight seater jeep. Time was getting on and when we arrived at the launch area our pilots were looking anxious. They rushed over and yanked open the doors. We all laughed at the surprised look on their faces as everyone spilled out of the vehicle. More laughter when the group realised that I had not been joking when I told them that the balloon would be boarded while lying on its side. Finally they were airbourne and floating over the Serengeti. I followed behind and later joined them in a champagne toast and a champagne breakfast. Our morning continued with a game drive during which we saw a lion up a tree, herds of elephants and a leopard. After a picnic lunch we continued on our game drive, last stop the hippo pool filled with hundreds of hippos all wallowing in the foul smelling water – but it was great to see them so close.
Day Six
Our decision to leave early was rewarded when we came across a lion and two lionesses strolling along the track in front of us. It was our best sighting of lions so far and we made the most of it. We had also arranged an optional visit to a Masai village where we were greeted by villagers doing their welcome dance and then we watched the men vying against each other to jump the highest. A tour of the village including a visit inside a hut culminated in the chance to purchase some Masai souvenirs. After lunch we had a free afternoon and some of us went on the lodge nature walk – The Little Five – a fascinating look at the insect life of the area and a chance to learn about the crater itself. As we were on the edge of the crater it was quite cold at night and some lucky people were treated to a hot water bottle. One member of the group called reception as he thought it was a small animal that had burrowed into his bed!
Day Seven
We were the first vehicles to enter the park when the gates opened at 06:30 and in time to see hippos rushing back to the safety of the water, black rhinos grazing in the distance, a cheetah making a kill and two lions sleeping by the track. And that was all before our picnic breakfast accompanied by a very welcome hot cup of coffee. We continued our game drive and spent a lot of time sitting by the lake watching the birds on the water, including flocks of flamingoes that had moved here from their usual home on Lake Manyara. Back to the lodge for a late lunch and a free afternoon before meeting in the bar to enjoy an acrobatic show in such a small space it seemed they would somersault into our laps.
Day Eight
Sadly it was time to re-trace our steps to Arusha where we bid farewell to some members of the group before taking our short flight to Zanzibar. As we were limited to 15 kgs on this flight we had tried to reduce the weight of our hold luggage by taking as much as possible in our hand luggage so the small 19 seater plane was full of us and our belongings. At Zanzibar we transferred from the airport to our hotel and then straight onto the beach to enjoy a stroll along the beautiful white sandy beach watching the sun setting.
Day Nine
To maximise our time on Zanzibar we abandoned the lie in we had promised ourselves for a tour of Stone Town. It was worth the sacrifice and we enjoyed visiting the market, the slave market, the cathedral and in particular seeing KP, our local guide, demonstrating how to wear a kanga, the local cotton sari. The rest of the day was free to chill out and enjoy a drink in the beach bar.
Day Ten
Another early start, dolphin watching today. First we had to drive to the oher side of the island and on the way we passed the Jozani Forest and saw some of the local residents, red colobus monkeys climbing the trees on the road side. We chugged out to sea in a small wooden boat and saw several dolphins before returning to Kimzimkazi for a beachside lunch. This evening we danced to the live band.
Day Eleven
A free morning to lounge by the pool and enjoy lunch in the beach bar before leaving paradise.