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My Travels > Charming Cilento Coast

Cilento Coast

Arriving at 11 o'clock at night and being greeted by 3 soggy spinach and ham sandwiches was not the best start to a trip. Reception manager Maria Rosaria's explanation that the English 'like vegetables' did not help. It could only get better and it certainly did. The next day was a lovely sunny day and the perfect opportunity to walk to Caselvelino di Marino and enjoy lunch in a very local restaurant and then a delicious ice cream from the local gelateria.

Palinuro and its famous grottoes awaited us the next day and we set off in our bus bright and early. I was looking forward to re-visiting this lovely, unspoilt resort and also to the journey there. Normally we would pass through the delightful medieval village of Pisciotta clinging to the cliffs but today the road was closed so we had to take the new super highway, the only thing that has changed in the last 4 years.
 
We clambered aboard our small fishing type boat and set off for the rugged coastline and its unusual grottoes with Francesco, the boatman, who could also be described as rugged causing a flutter among us ladies. Fascinated by the blood red walls of the Sanguine Grotto, the spooky rock formation of the Monks Grotto and the choking smell of the Sulphur Grotto the best was still to come and finally we marvelled at the brilliant blue depths of the Blue Grotto. It was a great trip and a chance to explore more of this unspoilt coastline.
 
Our other included excursion took us to the Greek/Roman ruins at Velia a fascinating site dominated by a Medieval tower that was visible from our hotel and beautifully floodlit at night. It was fortunate I had been there before and knew that the highlight was the Porta Rosa as our guide did not arrive at the appointed time. Undeterred by the 'road closed' sign we clambered over the barrier and made our way to the gate through which we enjoyed stunning views of the surrounding countryside. Franco finally put in an appearance and we soon forgave his absence when he explained he had been at the police station all night following an attempted credit card fraud at his restaurant. He promised us a special lunch and he did not let us down as we feasted on fresh fish and copious amounts of wine before returning to our hotel to chill out in the shade of the sun umbrellas around the pool.
 
A few people went off to the Amalfi coast by train one day and the only other excursion to run that week was Pompeii followed by a trip to Vesuvius. I was, as ever, over-awed by the sheer size of Pompeii and while I was waiting for the group I could imagine the Romans bustling in and out of the city through the Porta Marina. Our ascent to Vesuvius was nearly thwarted by a broken down vehicle slewn across the road. The Italian equivalent of the RAC was trying to get the vehicle onto a recovery vehicle and seemed totally unconcerned by the fact they had halted traffic in both directions. Francesco, the driver wound down his window and told them in no uncertain terms to move the vehicle into a parking area and deal with it there. No sooner said than done!
 
We had dinner out twice during the week in two very different towns. On arriving in Agropoli we walked up the hill to the church and wonderful views of the harbour glowing yellow in the setting sun. After dinner the lure of the gelateria proved too much for some people who arrived at the bus with overflowing tubs of various flavours. Our evening in Acciaroli coincided with a local craft market and after eating in a great restaurant overlooking the sea the ladies gave in to the temptation of cheap leather handbags while I sweet talked Francesco into allowing us 'just a few minutes more'.
 
Time flew by and it was soon our last evening socialising over drinks in the pool bar both before and after dinner, at least a late start the next day meant this final evening could be enjoyed to the full!

 

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